Over the years while hunting you all have learned some things about an animal's "body language" or actions that others may have missed, or just did not think about. Things that the animal does or that give an indication of what this animal is doing or going to do. These things could help someone else in takeing this animal.... Let's share some of these "tips". ... For instance........
Bunny rabbits, will almost always run up hill when first jumped. They may run a bit of a circle first, but generally end up going up hill. And if hunting them with dogs, when the dog jumps the rabbit if you just stand still the bunny will eventually(usually anyway) circle back close enough to where it was first jumped to give you a shot.
Squirrels like to circle around a tree keeping the tree between itself and the hunter. If you take your jacket off and hang it on a bush then quitely step to the opposite side of the tree, then take a large stick or small limb and toss it to the side of the tree your jacket is on, makeing noise, the squirrel will generally circle, and come to the side of the tree you are waiting on, thus giveing you a shot.
Prairie chicken, and I heard this works with pheasants too... Before going hunting stop and get a few balloons filled with helium. Tie about 20 or 25 feet of a strong string to them(like kite string) and when you start to hunt, tie the string to your back belt loop, allowing the balloon to float about 20 feet above your head as you walk along... When the chicken flushes it will stay low as it flys... Figureing, I guess, that this is a hawk looking for a meal.
A called coyote that stops, standing, faceing you, can generally be called on in. If he stops and turns sidewise, he is about to circle and taste the wind, so be watching for the opportunity to bring your rifle up for a shot. If he stops, turns his butt to you and looks back at you over his shoulder, you had best shoot if you are going to because he is fixing to leave the country. If he stops waaaay out there, or hangs up out of sight, and starts to howl or bark, he probably won't come any closer.
Bobcats can turn completely around inside their skin, so when releaseing one from your trap that is just too small to keep, always use a release stick... NEVER try to do it barehanded by tightly grabbing the scruff of his neck and the skin on his lower back as you compress the trap's jaw levers with your feet, no matter how easy it seems like it would be. You may get away with it the first few times, but sooner or later you won't.
Full Version: Hunting "Tips"
Hey, this is a great idea....some really good tips Mongo! Love the tree rat one....makes so much sense!!
I'll have to sit and think of some like these. The ones I have off the top of my head are pretty much common knowledge tips..lol.
I'll have to sit and think of some like these. The ones I have off the top of my head are pretty much common knowledge tips..lol.
QUOTE(Mongojoe @ Feb 10 2005, 11:33 AM)
Over the years while hunting you all have learned some things about an animal's "body language" or actions that others may have missed, or just did not think about. Things that the animal does or that give an indication of what this animal is doing or going to do. These things could help someone else in takeing this animal.... Let's share some of these "tips". ... For instance.......
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If you are hunting antelope and one peels off from the herd and goes by it's self. It is wounded or almost dead on it's feet. Always watch this one.
Mongo,
Great tips !!
I was taught and used the "squirrel tip" ever since I was a young pup. I never heard about the "Rabbit tip", but it always used to seem to me that they would head to the nearest briar patch; they always could seem to know when you were hunting with a Dog that wouldn't go in the brairs after them !! .. lol
I think the "helium-filled balloon" idea is neat, too darn bad they don't make replicas of animals shapes in balloons that you could use hunting. Imagine a Crow balloons filled with helium for Crow Hunting or a rabbit or fawn ballons for Yote Hunting !!
Here are some 99er "Hunting Related Tips" ...
1. When hunting rabbits with a dog that won't go into a briar patch, always carry a pocket or two full of "goonies" (small rocks) in your hunting coat.
2. If you happen to have a 4-legged buddy that hunts with you and have a fold-down front (bucket type) seats in your vehicle, buy a "rug runner", lay it on the seat and fold and tie the extra length over the head-rest end with a bungie cord. Especially if your wife and/or girlfriend likes to have her butt clean and dry if she happens to ride with you after your done hunting !!
3. Always keep a roll of good (black shiney) electrical tape in your Hunting Vehicle.
4. Save your old plastic soda bottles (green colored bottles are prefered) and fill them up with water & keep them in the fridge to take along for you and your 4-legged buddy to drink when hunting. Always take along at least one more than you think you and your dog will ever use (see #5 for why).
5. If you happen to be out on a real bright sunny day and forget to take along your "sun shade" for your scope, take that "spare" bottle of water in the green bottle in #4, drink or empty it, cut both ends off, peel off any label, cut a split down the length of the remaing cylinder shaped section, tape it so it fits snugly over your scope and viola ... you have just fashioned a Model99er green colored Scope Shade that will work well for a few weeks of Groundhog hunting, assuming you don't forget and leave it laying on the dash of your truck !! ... lol
Maybe I'll think of more of my "tips" later !!
99er
Great tips !!
I was taught and used the "squirrel tip" ever since I was a young pup. I never heard about the "Rabbit tip", but it always used to seem to me that they would head to the nearest briar patch; they always could seem to know when you were hunting with a Dog that wouldn't go in the brairs after them !! .. lol
I think the "helium-filled balloon" idea is neat, too darn bad they don't make replicas of animals shapes in balloons that you could use hunting. Imagine a Crow balloons filled with helium for Crow Hunting or a rabbit or fawn ballons for Yote Hunting !!
Here are some 99er "Hunting Related Tips" ...
1. When hunting rabbits with a dog that won't go into a briar patch, always carry a pocket or two full of "goonies" (small rocks) in your hunting coat.
2. If you happen to have a 4-legged buddy that hunts with you and have a fold-down front (bucket type) seats in your vehicle, buy a "rug runner", lay it on the seat and fold and tie the extra length over the head-rest end with a bungie cord. Especially if your wife and/or girlfriend likes to have her butt clean and dry if she happens to ride with you after your done hunting !!
3. Always keep a roll of good (black shiney) electrical tape in your Hunting Vehicle.
4. Save your old plastic soda bottles (green colored bottles are prefered) and fill them up with water & keep them in the fridge to take along for you and your 4-legged buddy to drink when hunting. Always take along at least one more than you think you and your dog will ever use (see #5 for why).
5. If you happen to be out on a real bright sunny day and forget to take along your "sun shade" for your scope, take that "spare" bottle of water in the green bottle in #4, drink or empty it, cut both ends off, peel off any label, cut a split down the length of the remaing cylinder shaped section, tape it so it fits snugly over your scope and viola ... you have just fashioned a Model99er green colored Scope Shade that will work well for a few weeks of Groundhog hunting, assuming you don't forget and leave it laying on the dash of your truck !! ... lol
Maybe I'll think of more of my "tips" later !!
99er
Hey, people we are off to a good start on these... Keep them comeing.
Another 99er tip ...
When your hunting in a farming area, when thinking about drinking out of a stream or creek, what may be "upstream" on one farm is most likely "downstream" from another farm !!
99er
When your hunting in a farming area, when thinking about drinking out of a stream or creek, what may be "upstream" on one farm is most likely "downstream" from another farm !!
99er
Another one ...
For those ichey legs you get from wool socks and the dry winter air, use a liberal application of brown vinegar !!
Yea it will burn like the dickens for about a minute, but after about 3 or so minutes, any iching will be gone. I asked a nurse to eplain why vinegar works so well to stop the itching and she said that it is absorbed into the skin and changes the skin's PH level quickly !!
99er
For those ichey legs you get from wool socks and the dry winter air, use a liberal application of brown vinegar !!
Yea it will burn like the dickens for about a minute, but after about 3 or so minutes, any iching will be gone. I asked a nurse to eplain why vinegar works so well to stop the itching and she said that it is absorbed into the skin and changes the skin's PH level quickly !!
99er
When calling coyotes and you put one down, if he appears to be down cleanly, don't get up, stay where you are and keep calling for another 4 or 5 minutes. Sometimes others will respond...not often, but often enough to make it worth the extra few minutes.
Just because you didn't see anything at a particular calling stand, don't make noise talking, creaking fences, coughing, slamming pick-up doors, ect., as you are leaveing. You don't want to educate a critter that may be close but not in sight, so leave as quitely as you came in, as you may sometime want to try this stand again.
If fishing or hunting in chigger and tick weather and you don't really want to "spray down" with smelly bug goop, attach a tick tag, like the ranchers attach to the ears of their cattle, to your boot tops.......... Or, if you prefer, to your ears.
If you take note when you see a formation of ducks flying in the familier "V" pattern you will notice that one line of the "V" is always longer than the other... Have you ever wondered why this is?... There is a scientific reason for this phenomena of nature................. There are more ducks in that line.
Just because you didn't see anything at a particular calling stand, don't make noise talking, creaking fences, coughing, slamming pick-up doors, ect., as you are leaveing. You don't want to educate a critter that may be close but not in sight, so leave as quitely as you came in, as you may sometime want to try this stand again.
If fishing or hunting in chigger and tick weather and you don't really want to "spray down" with smelly bug goop, attach a tick tag, like the ranchers attach to the ears of their cattle, to your boot tops.......... Or, if you prefer, to your ears.
If you take note when you see a formation of ducks flying in the familier "V" pattern you will notice that one line of the "V" is always longer than the other... Have you ever wondered why this is?... There is a scientific reason for this phenomena of nature................. There are more ducks in that line.
Another 99er tip ...
Mirrors can come in right handy when still hunting to keep an eye on that trail behind you !!
Bout the only thing I miss about my "old departed truck" was the larger Side Mirror. I'm actually gunna look for a Mirror like it the next time by any junk yards. If I find one like it (from a 77 Chevy Truck), I plan to mount it on a tree at my favorite spot in PA. If you can find one like it, they will "fold down", so they can double as a gun rest; you may want to glue some foam on the backside of the Mirror.
99er
Mirrors can come in right handy when still hunting to keep an eye on that trail behind you !!
Bout the only thing I miss about my "old departed truck" was the larger Side Mirror. I'm actually gunna look for a Mirror like it the next time by any junk yards. If I find one like it (from a 77 Chevy Truck), I plan to mount it on a tree at my favorite spot in PA. If you can find one like it, they will "fold down", so they can double as a gun rest; you may want to glue some foam on the backside of the Mirror.
99er
Another 99er tip ...
When trying to get permission to varmit and predator hunt (which of course can lead to bigger and better things), don't overlook ...
1. Farm Auctions
2. The Bulk Tank Milkman that hauls the Dairy Farmer's milk
Both can be great sources get new Farmers or found out what Farmer may have varmit or predator problems.
99er
When trying to get permission to varmit and predator hunt (which of course can lead to bigger and better things), don't overlook ...
1. Farm Auctions
2. The Bulk Tank Milkman that hauls the Dairy Farmer's milk
Both can be great sources get new Farmers or found out what Farmer may have varmit or predator problems.
99er
I ran across this at another forum, and thought you all maybe would find it interesting.
Caring for Camo Fabric:
The first washing should be in a solution of salt water to set the color.
Different types of fabric require different care:
Cotton - Camo of this type fades easily, but washing it with a half a cup of vinegar will help keep the colors strong. (Washing it again with a non-scent detergent immediately afterward will eradicate the vinegar smell.)
Polyester - These are very resistant to fading, but as with cottons, washing it inside out in cold water will help keep it that way. Again, similar to cotton camos, machine drying on the lowest settings is a must. (It will melt, otherwise.)
Wool - These have a natural tendency to reject dirt due to the oily fibers, so you shouldn’t have to wash camos of this type too often. Brushing it with a hard-bristled brush or running it under tap water should be able to take out most stains, but if this isn’t enough, hand washing with a very small amount of soap or baking soda, usually only a cap-full, should get it clean again. Line-dry when finished.
Scent-Absorbing - Lined with charcoal, these camos are cleaned best when put in the dryer and tumbled on high for close to 45 minutes. If this doesn’t work, though, as a last resort you can wash lightly in cold water to remove stubborn stains.
And remember - it’s best to line-dry all camos and spray with scent eliminator before they’re fully dry. (This allows the eliminator to fully penetrate the fibers and set in for a stronger effect.) Seal them in dry plastic bags when finished.
Caring for Camo Fabric:
The first washing should be in a solution of salt water to set the color.
Different types of fabric require different care:
Cotton - Camo of this type fades easily, but washing it with a half a cup of vinegar will help keep the colors strong. (Washing it again with a non-scent detergent immediately afterward will eradicate the vinegar smell.)
Polyester - These are very resistant to fading, but as with cottons, washing it inside out in cold water will help keep it that way. Again, similar to cotton camos, machine drying on the lowest settings is a must. (It will melt, otherwise.)
Wool - These have a natural tendency to reject dirt due to the oily fibers, so you shouldn’t have to wash camos of this type too often. Brushing it with a hard-bristled brush or running it under tap water should be able to take out most stains, but if this isn’t enough, hand washing with a very small amount of soap or baking soda, usually only a cap-full, should get it clean again. Line-dry when finished.
Scent-Absorbing - Lined with charcoal, these camos are cleaned best when put in the dryer and tumbled on high for close to 45 minutes. If this doesn’t work, though, as a last resort you can wash lightly in cold water to remove stubborn stains.
And remember - it’s best to line-dry all camos and spray with scent eliminator before they’re fully dry. (This allows the eliminator to fully penetrate the fibers and set in for a stronger effect.) Seal them in dry plastic bags when finished.
Well, here is a tip that I actually used today ...
Always keep a medium-sized (bout 4in by 8in) bag of Peas in your freezer at home and if you happen to have a fridge at camp !!
It works great as an "ice-pack" for bruises and such. When the bag of Peas thaws, it will "wrap-around" the bruised area. Course if you happen to be stranded in a snowstorm or such, they might come in handy to eat too !!
99er
Always keep a medium-sized (bout 4in by 8in) bag of Peas in your freezer at home and if you happen to have a fridge at camp !!
It works great as an "ice-pack" for bruises and such. When the bag of Peas thaws, it will "wrap-around" the bruised area. Course if you happen to be stranded in a snowstorm or such, they might come in handy to eat too !!
99er
Good tips guys!
To make a quick salt lick, take a feed sack, toe sack, burlap bag, ect., and put mineral salt inside. Use a piece of rope or strong cord to tie the top, and hang this from a tree limb in the area you are planning to hunt. When it rains, the water will run thru the salt and drip to the ground, starting a quick salt lick.
Put a piece of tape, a condum, or a finger cut from a latex glove over the muzzle of your rifle to keep out rain, mud, dirt, ect. The bullet will pass thru with no problem, and it will not affect your accuracy(when you miss, it's still your own fault).
Trappers use alot of urine on the line. After removeing a coyote, fox, bobcat, ect. from your trap, try to keep the butt slightly elevated a few inches higher than the head as you bring it in. After skinning, with the animal still hanging upside down, make a shallow cut thru the thin mussel of the lower stomach, slightly to one side or the other of center. You will find the bladder here. Pinch the top closed with your fingers and cut it free above the pinch and remove the "bag". Now this urine can be put into a squirt or spray bottle to use at the set. Sometimes enough urine can be obtained from one animal for several sets.
I read this one at another forum so I have never tried it...But the fella says, "A good, natural, and pleasant smelling cover scent can be made by picking up acorns, boil them in water until they are soft. Smash them up and then boil some more. When the water turns very dark, strain it and put the liquid into a spray bottle. This makes an effective and natural cover scent."
I ALWAYS carried a spoon, can opener(P-38, army style) and a couple of cans of something like sardines, vegatable soup, spam, ect., and a can or two of soda, and/or canteen of water in my glove box or somewhere on my truck when hunting or running traps. More than once that "I'll be back home in a few hours", has turned into alot more than that, and on several occasions I have been glad I had them. Just remember to change out the cans for new every spring....But I was always a believer in that old adage, "I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it".
Put a piece of tape, a condum, or a finger cut from a latex glove over the muzzle of your rifle to keep out rain, mud, dirt, ect. The bullet will pass thru with no problem, and it will not affect your accuracy(when you miss, it's still your own fault).
Trappers use alot of urine on the line. After removeing a coyote, fox, bobcat, ect. from your trap, try to keep the butt slightly elevated a few inches higher than the head as you bring it in. After skinning, with the animal still hanging upside down, make a shallow cut thru the thin mussel of the lower stomach, slightly to one side or the other of center. You will find the bladder here. Pinch the top closed with your fingers and cut it free above the pinch and remove the "bag". Now this urine can be put into a squirt or spray bottle to use at the set. Sometimes enough urine can be obtained from one animal for several sets.
I read this one at another forum so I have never tried it...But the fella says, "A good, natural, and pleasant smelling cover scent can be made by picking up acorns, boil them in water until they are soft. Smash them up and then boil some more. When the water turns very dark, strain it and put the liquid into a spray bottle. This makes an effective and natural cover scent."
I ALWAYS carried a spoon, can opener(P-38, army style) and a couple of cans of something like sardines, vegatable soup, spam, ect., and a can or two of soda, and/or canteen of water in my glove box or somewhere on my truck when hunting or running traps. More than once that "I'll be back home in a few hours", has turned into alot more than that, and on several occasions I have been glad I had them. Just remember to change out the cans for new every spring....But I was always a believer in that old adage, "I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it".
Here's another "tip" I read at another forum... Sounded like a winner so I posted it here...
Loose your blood trail? Try this nifty idea. Take a squirt bottle and fill it with ordinary hydrogen peroxide. Mist the area when you loose the blood trail. If the hydorgen peroxide bubbles up white, then you know you have located blood. It will bubble up similar to the way it bubbles up when you use it on a cut or scrape. Try it out the next time you're following a blood trail.
When setting and calling to that gobbler or coyote, I take a "stadium seat" pad that I have sprayed camo, to set on. It is alot easier on the butt than the cold, wet ground, sticks, or rocks, and allows you to set for longer peroids without discomfort.
I buy the surgical, latex gloves by the box of 100. They usually run from 8 to 12 dollars a box, depending on where you buy them, and always use them when skinning or dressing any animal.............. Or, for you more unscrupulous hunters, you can just cabbage on to a box from the room, when you go to visit someone in the hospital, or go to the doctor.
If walking out a trapline, or cross country calling, carry a dog choker chain or length of stout cord, and stuff a bunch of bread sacks inside another bread sack to take along too... Use the cord or choker chain to hang animals to skin, and the bread sacks to put the fur in. Makes it alot easier than carrying several dead animals. ...... And in a similar vein... When walking a goodly distance calling, I generally carried a small fanny pack or "walker's pouch" around my waist, to carry a bottle of water, can of soup or sardines, surgical gloves, bread sacks, length of cord, sharpening steel, extra cartridges, extra smokes and lighter, and an extra skinning knife.
Loose your blood trail? Try this nifty idea. Take a squirt bottle and fill it with ordinary hydrogen peroxide. Mist the area when you loose the blood trail. If the hydorgen peroxide bubbles up white, then you know you have located blood. It will bubble up similar to the way it bubbles up when you use it on a cut or scrape. Try it out the next time you're following a blood trail.
When setting and calling to that gobbler or coyote, I take a "stadium seat" pad that I have sprayed camo, to set on. It is alot easier on the butt than the cold, wet ground, sticks, or rocks, and allows you to set for longer peroids without discomfort.
I buy the surgical, latex gloves by the box of 100. They usually run from 8 to 12 dollars a box, depending on where you buy them, and always use them when skinning or dressing any animal.............. Or, for you more unscrupulous hunters, you can just cabbage on to a box from the room, when you go to visit someone in the hospital, or go to the doctor.
If walking out a trapline, or cross country calling, carry a dog choker chain or length of stout cord, and stuff a bunch of bread sacks inside another bread sack to take along too... Use the cord or choker chain to hang animals to skin, and the bread sacks to put the fur in. Makes it alot easier than carrying several dead animals. ...... And in a similar vein... When walking a goodly distance calling, I generally carried a small fanny pack or "walker's pouch" around my waist, to carry a bottle of water, can of soup or sardines, surgical gloves, bread sacks, length of cord, sharpening steel, extra cartridges, extra smokes and lighter, and an extra skinning knife.
Use "RAIN-X" on scope lens'. It sheets the water off quickly, and keeps fogging to a minimum.
If you use a tree stand...have it high enough that you look down on the deer. Don't set it up at his eye level.
When following up a wounded deer, do so quitely. If he is just weak and laying down, he may get up and run if he hears you and is able.
Be sure to have your traps all out and working the day or two before a winter storm. Senceing this change in weather the animals will be busy hunting and eating in case they have to "lay out" the storm.... Also be sure your sets are all "on go" before a warm front moves thru. When it hits it will also get the predators to moveing.
When butchering your deer, elk, hog or cow, freeze and ship the intestines to Hands as she enjoys a big, steamin', greasy, pile o' chitlins.
If calling coyotes and you miss, immediately start calling with ki-yi cries and yelps. Often he will stop long enough to give you another shot.
If bunny hunting with a partner, instead of just kicking at the brush piles, one of you set your gun down and climb up in the pile and go to stomping around... If a rabbit is in there this method will bring him out where often just kicking the pile will not... The other hunter needs to be ready..... And the "stomper" needs to use the old saying I always used when hunting with my old partner Psycho, "Now watch for the rabbit damn it, and don't shot me!"
If you use a tree stand...have it high enough that you look down on the deer. Don't set it up at his eye level.
When following up a wounded deer, do so quitely. If he is just weak and laying down, he may get up and run if he hears you and is able.
Be sure to have your traps all out and working the day or two before a winter storm. Senceing this change in weather the animals will be busy hunting and eating in case they have to "lay out" the storm.... Also be sure your sets are all "on go" before a warm front moves thru. When it hits it will also get the predators to moveing.
When butchering your deer, elk, hog or cow, freeze and ship the intestines to Hands as she enjoys a big, steamin', greasy, pile o' chitlins.
If calling coyotes and you miss, immediately start calling with ki-yi cries and yelps. Often he will stop long enough to give you another shot.
If bunny hunting with a partner, instead of just kicking at the brush piles, one of you set your gun down and climb up in the pile and go to stomping around... If a rabbit is in there this method will bring him out where often just kicking the pile will not... The other hunter needs to be ready..... And the "stomper" needs to use the old saying I always used when hunting with my old partner Psycho, "Now watch for the rabbit damn it, and don't shot me!"
If your dog gets covered with small burrs(hunter's ticks), or the larger cockleburrs and goatheads, and they are tightly wound in his fur, it helps to coat them with olive oil and then remove them. They come out much easier.....Or, if you don't care if your dog looks like he just had a head lice infestation, you can just take a pair of sizzors to the burrs.
If someone really ticks you off you can take a couple of Alka-Seltzer tablets and roll them up in a wad of hamburger meat, and toss it over the fence to his dog (one tablet for a smaller dog). Then call him(or local animal control) and tell him his dog is foaming at the mouth... This will highly excite the individual, and cause you much merryment, but will not harm the dog in any way.... so long as no one shoots him for being rabid.
Now I use only a good stone and oil, as I was taught, to sharpen good hunting and pocket knives... But for the knives I keep in a rack in the shed for skinning and butchering, fillet knives, "disposable pocket knives", and household butcher knives, I use either a CAM-NU or a RADA sharpener... These little gadgets will put a good, rough, "meat cutting" edge on a knife right fast in a hurry.
I buy the disposable surgical rubber gloves by the box of 100 at the drug store, and wear them any time I skin or butcher any animals.
At times ticks can be pretty bad on some of the animals you trap or call, especially coyotes. And these little blood suckers are just as happy to hop over onto you when you are skinning. You can prevent this by putting the animal into a trash bag, squirting in a couple of shots of a good bug spray(Black-Flag, Raid, ect.), and tieing the top shut for an hour before you start to skin.
If someone really ticks you off you can take a couple of Alka-Seltzer tablets and roll them up in a wad of hamburger meat, and toss it over the fence to his dog (one tablet for a smaller dog). Then call him(or local animal control) and tell him his dog is foaming at the mouth... This will highly excite the individual, and cause you much merryment, but will not harm the dog in any way.... so long as no one shoots him for being rabid.
Now I use only a good stone and oil, as I was taught, to sharpen good hunting and pocket knives... But for the knives I keep in a rack in the shed for skinning and butchering, fillet knives, "disposable pocket knives", and household butcher knives, I use either a CAM-NU or a RADA sharpener... These little gadgets will put a good, rough, "meat cutting" edge on a knife right fast in a hurry.
I buy the disposable surgical rubber gloves by the box of 100 at the drug store, and wear them any time I skin or butcher any animals.
At times ticks can be pretty bad on some of the animals you trap or call, especially coyotes. And these little blood suckers are just as happy to hop over onto you when you are skinning. You can prevent this by putting the animal into a trash bag, squirting in a couple of shots of a good bug spray(Black-Flag, Raid, ect.), and tieing the top shut for an hour before you start to skin.
Alrighty then, since there only seems to be a few of giving-up our tips on this thread, I figgured it's bout time to change the format ...
Sooo, let's try making it a question, clue and anwser format for a bit !!
Who's knows one of the best things to wipe you gun down with, even when it's raining outside ?? Clue ... most of us men probably hate to wear them, and you want the "top shelf" material when you use one to wipe down your gun !! 
99er
Sooo, let's try making it a question, clue and anwser format for a bit !!
Who's knows one of the best things to wipe you gun down with, even when it's raining outside ?? Clue ... most of us men probably hate to wear them, and you want the "top shelf" material when you use one to wipe down your gun !!
99er
Hummmmm...Men hate to wear them, top shelf, wipe down guns... Ahhhhh, perhaps a Kotex, T.P., panty hose, clean underwear, condums, iron lung, chastity belt, neck tie, bra? ... OK, I give up...
But, as for "tips", I read this in another forum and thought some of you deer hunters may find it interesting...
MAKE YOUR OWN DEER FEEDER:
It is very simple to make your own deer feeder. First take a 5-gallon bucket, a good sturdy rope and an old broom handle. Drill a hole in the bottom of the bucket 1/4" to 1/2" larger than the broom handle. Take the broom handle and put 2 nails or screws in the sides, opposite each other, about 6" from one end. Do not put the nails or screws all the way through, let them stick out about one inch. With the long end down, slide the broom handle into the bucket and through the hole. The nails or screws will keep the broom handle from falling through the bottom. Tie the rope to the bucket handle and throw the other end of the rope over a high tree branch, fill the bucket with corn or your favorite deer feed and put the lid on the bucket to keep it dry, and pull the whole thing up until the broom handle is hanging 4-5 feet above the ground. Now tie the rope off to the tree. The deer feed will fall to the ground every time a deer bumps the broom handle... and it may help to do this in an area you know is frequented by deer.
But, as for "tips", I read this in another forum and thought some of you deer hunters may find it interesting...
MAKE YOUR OWN DEER FEEDER:
It is very simple to make your own deer feeder. First take a 5-gallon bucket, a good sturdy rope and an old broom handle. Drill a hole in the bottom of the bucket 1/4" to 1/2" larger than the broom handle. Take the broom handle and put 2 nails or screws in the sides, opposite each other, about 6" from one end. Do not put the nails or screws all the way through, let them stick out about one inch. With the long end down, slide the broom handle into the bucket and through the hole. The nails or screws will keep the broom handle from falling through the bottom. Tie the rope to the bucket handle and throw the other end of the rope over a high tree branch, fill the bucket with corn or your favorite deer feed and put the lid on the bucket to keep it dry, and pull the whole thing up until the broom handle is hanging 4-5 feet above the ground. Now tie the rope off to the tree. The deer feed will fall to the ground every time a deer bumps the broom handle... and it may help to do this in an area you know is frequented by deer.
Dang at all the good tips!! Good going!
Now Eli.....men don't like to wear em? ...Shoes? (lol..)
I have no clue....
Now Eli.....men don't like to wear em? ...Shoes? (lol..)
I have no clue....
Hands,
Mongo guessed it on his "shotgun approach of guesses" !!
Get thee to a "Goodwill Store" and get ya couple of "Silk Neckties", tie one to each of your favorite rifles or shotguns and let me know what ya think !!
Again, the silk necktie is great for "wiping down" you firearm, even in the rain !!
99er
Mongo guessed it on his "shotgun approach of guesses" !!
Get thee to a "Goodwill Store" and get ya couple of "Silk Neckties", tie one to each of your favorite rifles or shotguns and let me know what ya think !!
Again, the silk necktie is great for "wiping down" you firearm, even in the rain !!
99er
lol....dang I was thinking "tie". (Actually, my first thought was "rubber"..lmao...but, I didn't think you'd say that, so...thought "tie".
Bringing this topic back up...because it does have some good tips for the approaching deer season....and I wanted to add a couple too.......
If you use RAIN-X on the lens of your scope it will sheet the rain off, and help prevent fogging.
Something my son and I used to do..... We bought a couple of old, military rifles, and used them as "nasty weather" deer rifles. I just always hated taking a nice, scoped, rifle out when it was raining, sleeting or snowing... With the issue iron sights these old rifles are plenty accurate enough for deer out to 100 yards and a bit more...and you can still pick up a pretty good military rifle for a decent price... We used an old Japanese Arisaka in 6.5 Jap., and a British Pattern 14 in .303 Brit.... Just make sure you get something that shoots a fairly "pedistrian" cartridge so you don't have any problems finding good soft point hunting ammo for it..... You can still find alot of these old rifles in good, serviceable condition for around 100 bucks or less.
If you use RAIN-X on the lens of your scope it will sheet the rain off, and help prevent fogging.
Something my son and I used to do..... We bought a couple of old, military rifles, and used them as "nasty weather" deer rifles. I just always hated taking a nice, scoped, rifle out when it was raining, sleeting or snowing... With the issue iron sights these old rifles are plenty accurate enough for deer out to 100 yards and a bit more...and you can still pick up a pretty good military rifle for a decent price... We used an old Japanese Arisaka in 6.5 Jap., and a British Pattern 14 in .303 Brit.... Just make sure you get something that shoots a fairly "pedistrian" cartridge so you don't have any problems finding good soft point hunting ammo for it..... You can still find alot of these old rifles in good, serviceable condition for around 100 bucks or less.
Do they make a spray-on type of waterproofing; anyone got any brand names to lay on me ??
My "waterproof" camo poncho isn't quite as "waterproof" as I had originally thought, course I hadn't really planned to use it in a total deluge either !!
99er
My "waterproof" camo poncho isn't quite as "waterproof" as I had originally thought, course I hadn't really planned to use it in a total deluge either !!
99er
http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s...mberId=12500226
Then there is some other stuff that my friend Psycho uses of EVERYTHING to water proof it...called CAMP-DRY...and it does work real well.
Then there is some other stuff that my friend Psycho uses of EVERYTHING to water proof it...called CAMP-DRY...and it does work real well.
Thanks for the link Mongo !!
99er
99er
If you can find a woman in that time of the month take her hunting with you in the rut.By all means put her in a treestand though.
This drives the bucks whacky.
This drives the bucks whacky.
If you need a seat when hunting. Put some folded news papers in a plastic bag they are easy to carry and make a warm and dry seat when squirrel or any hunting. Also are cheap to replace when worn out. I read this and tried it a couple of years ago it works.
Back to the top for the new folks.
Besides, this is one of my favorite topics, especially around this time of year !!
99er
Besides, this is one of my favorite topics, especially around this time of year !!
99er
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